Conspicuous Consumption and Veblen

How far is Thorstein Veblens theory, that the important function of robe is the display of wealth, even so valid? Thorstein Veblen was a sociologist and economic expert who came up with the term discernible consumption. He was the author of the book The system of the Leisure Class published in 1899 which spoke approximately the functional row in America. During that sentence the running(a) class was visibly be after to the leisure class. The Leisure class was kn maintain to be the emerging nonion class of that time, as they would cod and constantly engage in a public display of their locating.The following essay is going to explore Veblens theory in relation to the display of wealth with dress. I aim to show the relevance of Veblens idea today whilst winning into feeling the repositions in class, consumption and consumerism. Veblen provided a few main ideologies in which he examines the nonion of dress as an expression of pecuniary civilization Veblen (199415) He stated that the idea of strident waste be the we ber had the e gaycipation to purchase on the wholething they wishd without so untold as whatever efficient obstacles. Currently, fast formulate feeds the desire to overcome consume, and clothes argon replaced in front they ar worn out.The inureality of todays modal value is the epitome of manifest waste as new trends come out every season which encourages iodin to throw out items that pa procedure way gone out of hammer. Trends atomic number 18 changing faster than ever before ( bod 1). (Tess geological eras 2010) states textile waste at council tips now accounts for 30 per cent, comp bed to just seven per cent five geezerhood ago. The thrill of watching each seasons runway shows, to the stuff of joining in and following the trends, (Fig 2) fast fashion promotes mass exertion and waste.Fig 1 Fig 2 Another rule of Veblens, is that of featured leisure which he defined as a non- rich use of time. Exampl es of conspicuous leisure include taking long unnecessary vacations to exotic places which are fully motivated by a genial factor (Fig 3). era is consumed non-productively (1) from a sense of unworthiness of productive work, and (2) as an differentiate f pecuniary ability to afford a life of idleness (Veblen 1934 43) These are time-consuming activities that suggest an indifference to such mundane concerns as working for a living. (Fig 4) The leisure rende sanguine by the wife in such cases is, of course, not a simple manifestation of idleness or indolence. It al well-nigh eer occurs disguised under some form of work or phratry duties or fond awork forceities, which prove on analysis to serve teensy or no ulterior end beyond showing that she does not and need not occupy herself with anything that is gainful or that is of substantial use. (Veblen 1934 69) signifier 3 dactyl 4 rank consumption of valuable strongs is a means of re reposeability No class of society, not even the most abjectly poor, forgoes all customary conspicuous consumption. Veblen (1994 Chapter 4) In Veblens time during the late nineteenth century (Fig 5) and early 1900s (Fig 6) womans wear was made to numerate as far apart from any work-wear as possible. Corsets, delicate fabrics and game heels all were worn to prove that they are entirely restricted from any laborious work and would make manual of arms work very difficult.Affluent women crippled themselves in order to throw away on a convincing display of idleness, and as he put it made them permanently and obviously unfit for work. Veblen (1994 Chapter 7) The tight corsets and luxurious fabrics proved that they could afford to wear impractical clothing which was pricy to clean all for the sole exercise to acquire a certain level of status amongst the public. These consumers could easily fall into the Nouveau Riche category which was an emerging class in the 19th century.Style would thitherfore play a key role in separatin g the wearer from the working class. In addition to showing the wearer merchantman afford to consume freely and uneconomically it quite a little in give care manner be shown, in the same stroke, that he or she, is not under the necessity or earning of a livelihood, the evidence of social worth is enhanced to a considerable degree. Our dress, therefore, should not whole be expensive, but it should also make plain to all observers that the wearer is not engaged in any kind of productive labour (Veblen 1994105)Fig 5 Fig 6 Veblens most well-known principle related to his term conspicuous consumption which describes the unnecessary purchase of serve and sounds which are bought for the sole focus of displaying and advertising wealth. This is done in the enterprise to maintain or attain a certain level of social status. Such goods are now collectively known as Veblen goods which is a assembly of commodities. The fact that these goods are placed at such high wrongs is the very th ing that makes them attractive to conspicuous consumers.Conspicuous consumption was for certain not limited to the western countries, in China, for example, girls in affluent families would call for their feet broken and tightly bound so that they grew to expect tiny white lotus feet. These were thought to be very old-time since the women who had them were unable to survive without the serve well of servants. This was a sign of wealth taken to the extreme (fig 7 Figure 7 Mass advertising was kick-started by the Ameri finishs when Paris could no lasting be relied on for the in style(p) fashions due to ban in exports in the early 1950s.The Ameri sewers capitalised on this ban and created a new form of Ameri tramp Fashion. It was now the Americans turn to show the world whats what. American images swamped the media. By the 1950s the media had so far, Elvis Presley, James Dean and Marlon Brando (Fig 8) now were coming onto the blast tally and headed the iconic all-American re bellious look this decade brought well-nigh. Subcultures started to form, rebels and gangs adopted denim as a means of revolt against the want to fit the mould the media portrayed. The teddy Boys is a perfect example of such a subculture.The Teddy boys were more than often than not working class men who wore clothes that had resemblances to that of the Edwardian era and would dress up for the evening. This look was strongly associated with American Rock and Roll and this look made it ok for people to start caring again for what they looked like since World War II in Britain. The look compromised of dark shades of drape jackets, waistcoats, high-waisted tight-fitting trousers exposing the wearers socks and velvet collars. In direct occupation to this, the upper and middle class white collar workers, were choosing to dress own during their leisure time, casting off the constraints of the suit they had worn to all week, resulting in a complete reversal of Veblens conspicuous leisur e theory, where the working classes are also rejecting the notion that just because they are involved in productive labour it does not mean they cannot dress socially above their class status. Figure 8 During the 1970s the Hippy hunting expedition began and as the hippies were mostly from wealthy backgrounds and middle to upper class families this was clearly provided another rebellion against Veblens theory.The 1980s was the decade of money harming and is often referred to as an excessive time of conspicuous consumption. The mentality in the 80s was all about big money and using up (Fig 9). The economy had boomed, greed was good, women entered the boardroom with full force and it was all about power dressing. The yuppies were born due to conspicuous consumption and obtain malls began to snap up everywhere. Figure 9 Today, there are smooth numerous examples of conspicuous consumption and the studies on general advanced consumption are so intricate, that almost all walks of life are targeted with todays mass media.Adverts and billboards are everywhere telling the public whats nerve slight and whats not. Brands like Louis Vuitton, Chanel and Moet Chandon sell a lifestyle. Moet Chandon (Fig 10) advert states Be mythologic and shows two beautiful well-dressed women climbing out of an expensive car with a bottle of champagne in one womans hand. An advertisement like this is basically trying to show the public what status could be achieved by purchasing a bottle of Moet Chandon.The term belongings up with the Joneses comes to mind, as studies show that many consumers purchase goods just to show off and maintain a certain status amongst their friends. Figure 10 Veblen goods arent just restricted to clothes as the purchase of certain magazines, purely for the status they offer. Being seen reading a magazine like Robb deal or Conde Nasts traveller whitethorn give the impression that one can afford what is featured in the magazine. Veblen also spoke abo ut the way dress can prove many things.The wearer can give an impression that they can spend without much thought on the price. Veblen goods are understood very much around, such as designer hand handgrips, expensive wines and thousand-dollar watches. The prodigality watch is an ultimate example of a Veblen good as the consumer really buys into the allure of a higher status. Companies like Rolex, TAG Heur and zed have all used celebrities such as Roger Federer, Leonardo DiCaprio and Daniel Craig in his bond suit. Even though its purpose is very practical and can help with everyday decision making.These watches are aimed a business men with a high salary who bring up or would like to identify with the sports stars and actors wearing these watches at the back of TIME magazine and the like. A Louis Vuitton bag for example just wouldnt be viewed the same without the high price tag. Todays fast fashion and mass production also encourages conspicuous consumption. However mass producti on has changed the outlook on mans life and has created a singular type of existence which can be viewed as almost humiliating and that the products are what drives man.The trends we see from designers on catwalks are translated as quickly as possible into high passageway stores. It is not surprising that with the emphasis on keeping up with the latest trends which ties into fitting in with society consumption of clothes has reached an all-time high. The flavor of clothes however, is less of a feature than the over-all look of the item. In the twee times, garments had to be made of the best lace, but with todays technology, garments can be made to look more expensive than they really are.Keeping up-to trend with accessories such and bags and shoes is still very expensive to do. sources put their signature touches on shoes and bags which make them more lust after. Christian Louboutins shoes have the signature red sole, Louis Vuitton may feature an LV and a Mulberry bag could del iver their characteristic tree on the logotype (Fig 10). To be seen with any of these items offers a instantaneous status that comes with it. The recession did not bring about any less ostentatious designer bags from luxury fashion houses during the recession.Joseph Nunes, a market professor at the University of Southern California Marshall School of argumentation recently stated in theJournal of Consumer Psychology (2011) A good chunk of America loves using products to signal their status. If the recession didnt hit them, their need for status outweighed their need to follow social norms. Figure 11 close to high fashion haute couture designers have yet to cater for a poorer crowd, and still target people with a higher income. The current obsession with what celebrities are wearing can also dictate what a large group of the public choose to wear.This is where Veblens theory is still very much in place. Victoria Beckham, Alexa Chung (Fig 12) and Kate Moss (Fig 13) are all very m uch followed by what they wear. By purchase into the current celebrity craze where being seen with a Birkin bag can greatly increase ones chances of a higher social status, one is also buying into conspicuous consumption. Magazines devote much of their features to Whos wearing what. Most celebrities still choose to wear designer labels, therefrom making the public lust after these individual items, and save up for them just to be part of the craze. This feeds into the label-hungry shopper where Burberrys checked pattern and Guccis brown, red and green stripe offers a satisfaction worth shopping for. Fig 12 Fig 13 Charity shopping has presented a new outlook on inconspicuous consumption and the consumer no chronic needs to spend a lot of money to look fashionable and be part of the in crowd. Five years ago the thought of purchasing second hand goods would be flinched at. Fashionably vintage items can be found and are lusted after in charity shops. now you dont have to spend mon ey to look good which Veblen surely did not foresee.Even the media has gotten involved and magazines feature articles on how to be a smart charity-shopper, how to recycle your own clothing and the art of buying classic pieces which will last forever. A few notable factors have changed since Veblens time which presents a new outlook on conspicuous consumption. In the late 1800s when looking at the display of wealth by clothes, one would look at the wearers fabric graphic symbol to determine their status. Good handmade lace and beautiful tailoring was a status of wealth. Now hints that determine wealth have become less subtle with the ntroduction of labels that indicate the garments worth. Logos like Ralph Laurens man playing polo on a long horse (Fig 14) , lactoses crocodile, Burberrys knight on a horse and Hermes horse drawn carriage. Many of these logos feature a horse, and this business leader be because of their age and may hint to a previous era or because of the fact that t he ownership of a horse is a luxury in itself and is very expensive to maintain. There is much thought that goes into labels and there is always a message and reason behind them. Nikes logo for example features a tick which means it is correct. Subliminal messages such as these, feature everywhere today and theres no query that Veblen would have never anticipated this. This antagonism offers an explanation that the restless change in fashion which neither the canon of expensiveness nor that of beauty alone can account for. (Veblen 1994108) Figure 14 Veblens theory in the modern day can be seen as somewhat of a sweeping statement and is not entirely applicable to the present day. Veblen relied on the concept that only if you were of the nouveau class would you take part in looking fashionable, thereof ignoring the middle class completely.The internet, television and magazines (Fig 15) have brought fashion to a importantly larger audience where not only rich people tinge in frivo lous buying. Figure 15 I believe Veblens theory is still applicable today in some instances. However, with the mental hospital of mass production and the changing attitudes in class as that of which I have mentioned. Wealth is still very much shown finished dress, from the use of logos and labels which hint on how much the wearer has spent on their clothes.However today with so many fake products and good imitations of these well-known labels it may be impossible to know how much the individual spent on their garment. One thing remains the same however, the item was bought for the primary purpose of being seen and acknowledged by others, fake or not. Designers pay celebrities to hold up their products or be seen wearing them which indicates that Veblens theory has stood the test of time, it is still very much the taste of the wealthy that has an impact on fashion and dictates what sells and what doesnt.Veblen wrote that the lower classes would imitate the dress of the leisure cla ss which as shown, is still applicable to today. Mass consumption and mass production are amongst the features that have changed since Veblens time. Throughout the decades since Veblens time there has not been as much of an emphasis on individuality and self expression through clothes as there is now, and this is where Veblens theory slightly loses its relevance. The movement to express oneself without considering wealth as much in a self-aggrandizing society. Other factors have started to replace the display of wealth such as, religion, age, practice of medicine taste and gender.This is obvious because of the large amount of subcultures found today. I have shown how Veblens ideologies have lost and increased in relevance through the decades. Veblen was able to show how consumption can also be a symbol of social structure and that conspicuous consumption is relational and not functional and is a conscious display of affluence and status through the consumption of these garments. B ibliography Info Books * Malcolm Barnard (1996). Fashion as Communication. First ed. London Routledge Publishers. (p59-64) * Thorstein Veblen (2005). Conspicuous spending. London Penguin Books. p. 42-62) * Tim Delany & Tim Madigan (2009). The Sociology of Sports. North Carolina McFarland & Company Inc. Websites * Tricia Ellis-Christensen. (2010). What is conspicuous consumption? . available http//www. wisegeek. com/what-is-conspicuous-consumption. htm. hold up accessed sixth Dec 2010. * Dr. Paurav Shukla. (2010). Middle-aged consumers & luxury consumption. gettable http//www. evancarmichael. com/Management/1066/Middleaged-consumersluxury-consumption. html. abide accessed fifth sue 2011 * Ben Steverman. (2011). Conspicuous Consumption Is Back. Available http//www. businessweek. om/investor/content/jan2011/pi20110127_382340. htm. Last accessed seventh work 2011 * Lexic. (2011). Literary usage of Conspicuous consumption. Available http//www. lexic. us/definition-of/conspicuous_co nsumption. Last accessed 9th March 2011. Quotes * Thorstein Veblen (1994). The Theory of The Leisure Class. New York Dover Publications. (p. 256) * Lucy Tesseras, 2010. Fast fashion a throw away trend? blog 12 July, http//www. supplychainstandard. com Available at Accessed at 2nd March 2011 Joseph Nunes quoted by Ben Steverman (2011). Conspicuous Consumption Is Back. Available http//www. businessweek. com/investor/content/jan2011/pi20110127_382340. htm. Last accessed 7th March 2011. figs (Fig 1&2) Image . (2008). Shop the Spring Trends. Available http//fashiontribes. typepad. com/fashion/2008/02/shop-the-spring. html. Last accessed 8th March 2011. (Fig3) Couple on Yacht. (2010). Image. Available http//www. corbisimages. com/Enlargement/42-18292911. html. Last accessed 9th March 2011 (Fig 4) rear end William Godward. (1900). Conspicuous Leisure. Available http//en. ikipedia. org/wiki/FileGodward_Idleness_1900. jpg. Last accessed 8th March 2011. (Fig 5) genuinely Victorian , (2010 ),1899 Fashion PlateONLINE. Available athttp//trulyvictorian. com/history/1890. htmlAccessed 06 declination 10. (Fig 6) Chanarambie Victorian , (1905),The Very Latest back in the days of 1905ONLINE. Available athttp//www. rootsweb. ancestry. com/usgenweb/mn/murray/history/098-099. htmAccessed 06 December 10. (Fig 7) Daniel Schwen. (2010). Footbinding. Available http//en. wikipedia. org/wiki/FileFoot_binding_shoes_1. jpg. Last accessed 8th March 2011. Fig 8) Columbia Pictures/Courtesy of Getty Images, (1953),Marlon BrandoONLINE. Available athttp//www. stylelist. com/2010/05/25/joes-jeans-marlon-brando/Accessed 08 December 10. (Fig 9) image. toutlecine. com, (1988),Working GirlONLINE. Available athttp//www. ellecanada. com/fashion/lights-camera-fashion/a/28965/4Accessed 08 December 10. (Fig 10) Brandsizzle, (2006),Moet & ChandonONLINE. Available athttp//www. brandsizzle. com/blog/2006/12/sexy_advertisin. htmlAccessed 08 December 10. (Fig 11) Geek Handbags, (2009),Mulberry BagONLINE. Available athttp//www. eekhandbags. com/mulberry/mulberry-does-an-interestingly-classic-daria-hobo-bagAccessed 09 December 10. (Fig 12) HOTELFASHIONLAND. COM, (2010),Alexa ChungONLINE. Available athttp//lexposure. net/style/ touch/people-and-parties/londons-top-10-it-girlsAccessed 10 December 10. (Fig 13) Kate Moss. (2008). Image. Available http//www. handbagfairy. co. uk/blog/fashion/a-decade-in-fashion/. Last accessed 9th March 2011. (Fig 14) Ralph Lauren Logo . (2010)Image. Available http//flockedwallpaper. co. uk/Stockist/index. php? main_page=index&cPath=1604_770_464_440. Last accessed 2nd March 2011.